Deep in the Canyon
Trocoman House at Estancia Ranquilco
By Gonzalo Flego
I had been to Chochoi Mallin many times before, even before the new lodge was built. It was always a treat to guide in this place that was so far from my home waters. Located virtually in the middle of nowhere, nestled between two huge mountain ranges, and in an area with a multitude of rivers and creeks that had almost never been fished.
Our helicopter lifted off early in the morning and turned north, in the direction of Trocoman House, and we were greeted with a view of the high ridge line of the Andes Mountains, which always fascinates me. A few minutes later, the pilot made a decision to fly lower through the narrow, deep canyon to make for a more pleasant ride by shielding us from the winds coming from the west. It was an incredible flight, buzzing over the Trocoman River and along the vertical walls of the canyon. I knew this section of the river well, having floated it many times, but there was no way to compare it with seeing the river from above.
The helicopter dropped us off a couple of miles downstream from the house, and we took our time fishing upriver until the late afternoon. The remoteness of the Trocoman has kept it protected from fishing pressure, and it has a healthy population of very large rainbow and brown trout. It’s possible to stalk and sight-cast to trophy-sized fish, using streamers to tempt the largest, or even fishing the inch-worm hatch during the season.
We could tell we were coming close to the house, as we saw the signature rows of towering old Lombardy poplar trees that are always planted as windbreaks around the Patagonian countryside. It’s difficult to imagine how the original house was built in this place, where no roads, nor even a four-wheel drive trail exist to get here. It is only accessible by horse, or by the way we arrived, and remains completely off the grid and has the feeling of being lost in time.
The house is actually a secondary home on a huge ranch. The main house, at least an hour’s ride on horseback across the far side of the river, is still occupied by the owner. The property was acquired in the 1980’s, and from the beginning, the owner’s intention was to minimize the impact to the environment while building the houses. Today, most access is entirely by horse.
The Trocoman House was designed as a temporary living and work studio for a member of the family who was an artist, to provide a secluded and inspirational environment surrounded by nature. Walking into the house is like stepping back in time. Its rustic construction, antique furnishings, a functional layout with the kitchen and dining area with a wood stove, and a fireplace in the heart of the main room. There are two rooms, the main one supports two guests and has another fireplace and a wonderful view of the river.
Before coming to the House, I had always thought of Chochoi Mallin as being in the middle of nowhere, but this house, deep in the canyon of the Trocoman River, is somewhere further beyond nowhere. Spending the night in the Trocoman House is such an overwhelming experience that it stands as the trip highlight for many guests.
I can’t wait to come back.